OECD Report: PFASs and Alternatives in Cosmetics, Report on Commercial Availability and Current Uses

On February 22, 2024, the OECD (Organisation for Economic Co-operation and Development) published a report titled "PFAS and alternatives in cosmetics: report on commercial availability and current uses" regarding PFASs and their alternatives. This article will provide information about this report.

Perfluoro and polyfluoro alkyl substances (PFASs) are a group of substances that are widely used and accumulate in the human body and the environment over time. Because they are extremely persistent in our environment and in our bodies if absorbed, they are also called "forever chemicals". However, data on the absorption of PFASs through human skin are insufficient.

This report examines the commercial availability and current uses of per- and polyfluoroalkyl substances (PFASs) and alternatives in cosmetics, as well as their market penetration, feasibility, effectiveness, and cost. PFASs provide a wide range of functions in cosmetic products, such as hair and skin care products, emulsifiers, stabilizers, oil and water-resistant substances, and volumizers.

Technically and economically viable alternatives to PFASs intentionally used in cosmetic products are widely available in the market, indicating a high potential for substitution. However, stakeholders have indicated that substituting PFASs in cosmetics requires the entire product to be reformulated to provide the same functions. Based on an examination of chemical ingredient databases, it is claimed that there are hundreds of alternative (non-fluorinated) chemical substances that provide the same function as PFASs in cosmetic products. The overall market share of cosmetics containing PFASs is relatively low. This has been confirmed by the cosmetic industry, which has stated that they have been moving away from PFAS use for several years, and PFASs can be relatively easily replaced with other components since they do not provide any specific technical function that non-fluorinated alternatives cannot. However, very few studies have experimentally proven this. Additionally, very little quantitative or qualitative information has been found regarding the costs of replacing PFASs with non-fluorinated alternatives.

Most of the PFASs detected through laboratory analysis in cosmetic products are not among the reported ingredients. This indicates that in most cases, PFASs may also be present in cosmetic products as impurities or degradation products. Additionally, while the deliberate use of PFASs poses a separate problem, it also presents a technical challenge for companies wishing to gradually remove or substitute PFASs in product lines.

Thirty-six different PFASs (polymeric and non-polymeric) have been identified for use in cosmetic products. To access currently used and identified alternative chemicals that do not contain fluorine, click here.

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